Initial Observations

So here are a few things I have noticed about my time here in Baku thus far. First of all, when you are told Baku is in the Muslim world, it is nothing like any other Muslim country I have visited. The government of Azerbaijan is a secular republic, meaning it has no official state religion. Azerbaijan, along with Iran, are the only two majority Shi'a Islamic counties in the world, but the two could not be any different. While Iran is known for its strict, authoritarian, and conservative government, Azerbaijan is known as one of the most irreligious counties in the world. In 1921, the women of Azerbaijan decided to "throw of the veil", and since then it is uncommon to see women with any type of head covering at all. In fact, the women of Azerbaijan dress quite fashionably (and at times, quite immodestly), taking much of their fashion from their Eastern European neighbors. Men here wear typical western clothes, although among the youth of the city it is definitely the norm to dress in a very cosmopolitan style, wearing darker and tighter fitting designer clothes.

As for the city itself, it is a city full of contrasts and contradictions. You can see how its history has made it into the eclectic mix that it is today. You will see tons of luxury cars on the road, including a host of Range Rovers and Mercedes, but always flanked bu a horde of old taxis and Russian-made cars. The buildings are also quite a mix. At times, you look up at think you are in Paris, with beautiful stone arches and wide windows, with a luxury retailer such as Armani or Guess on the ground floor. Next you feel like you have been transported to an ancient Roman city when you are wandering about in the Old City, not sure what to make of the history that surrounds you. Then you look to the next building and it is a Soviet-era Russian bland and boring building, flanked by a dilapidated apartment building that looks like it could crash over in the next big wind storm.

The place just seems to have a hard time defining its own identity. It's an odd mix of Western Europe, Eastern Europe, Asia, and the Middle East all thrown into one. I guess that is why they call this part of the world both the Caucus and Eurasia, as it has such a mixed identity. Walking around at times I feel like I am back in Europe, but then I try to cross the street, having to dart my way between cars that don't seem to have any real road rules, and I suddenly feel like I am back in Cairo. Quite a bit of the city is well off, mainly due to the influx of foreign oil companies that do a lot of business here in Baku. Because of that, you see major construction strewed all across the city. There are other places that seem much more like the Asian disarray I was somewhat more expecting, with little bazaars and local shops that arm every street corner. It is an odd place, one I am still trying to get my senses around, but I hope this gives you a bit of an idea of what I am seeing an experiencing here in Baku.